Size: 4" x 3" x 4 1/2" tall including handles.
2006 by Basket Maker's Supply The Basket Maker's Catalog
Please print this FREE pattern and share with your friends.
Enjoy this easy to make basket. The Peppermint Twist makes an excellent gift for your family and friends. Features a filled bottom, French Randing and decorative side handles.
Calculate Supplies for 1 to 20 Peppermint Twist Baskets with the Basket Supply Calculator. The Supply List gives you the least expensive way to purchase the supplies for your quantity of baskets. View on-line or print to your printer.
Materials / Supplies
| Description | Item | Add to Cart |
|---|---|---|
| 30 ft. - 1/4" Flat Reed - Stakes, Weavers and Handles | Item 1014F | Add |
| 12 ft. - 1/4" Cherry Dyed Flat Reed - Randing | Item CH14F | Add |
| 3 ft. - 7 mm Flat Oval Reed Natural - Rims | Item 3370F | Add |
| 3 ft. - Fine Fine Cane - Lashing | Item 4214F | Add |
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Tools Needed |
|
|---|---|
| Pliers | Stapler |
| Scissors or Shears | Carving Knife |
| Clothespins (spring type) | Pencil |
| Measuring Tape | Container to hold water |
| Basketry Packing Tool | Old Towel |
| Hints in working with Reed |
|---|
| When the pattern calls for soaking your flat reed, soaking 1 or 2 minutes in warm water is usually long enough to make reed flexible. Soak the Flat Oval Reed for 5 to 10 minutes in hot water. If reed becomes dry while you are weaving, dip it in water for a few seconds or spray with water. |
| Dyed Reed: To minimize the possibility of dyed reed "running" a bit or "bleeding," soak the dyed reed in water and rinse several times. Wipe with a towel before weaving. |
| Do not over soak your reed, it will become mushy. |
| Flat reed has a smooth side and a rough side. You can determine the rough side by sharply bending a wet piece of reed in half. The rough side will usually fray or splinter more than the smooth side. Work with the smooth side of the reed to the outside of the basket. |
| Keep your weaving even and the rows touching as you make your basket. Pack the rows following completion of each section. |
| As you weave, gently move the stakes to keep them vertical, to maintain equal space between stakes and to maintain the needed circumference. |
| Reed should be completely dry before being stored. |
Fig. 1
Cut 5 stakes 12" long from 1/4" natural flat reed.
Cut 7 stakes 10 1/4" long from 1/4" natural flat reed.
Using a pencil, mark these stakes 4" from each end on the rough side of the reed. See Figure 1.
Cut 4 filler pieces 4" long from 1/4" natural flat reed.
Photo 2a
Dampen your stakes and fillers.
Using your pencil marks as guides (rough side up) layout your base as follows:
See Photo 2a.
Photo 2b
Alternately weave the 4" filler pieces and the 12" stakes across the 10 1/4" stakes aligning pencil marks. The 12" stakes and filler should touch each other. See Photo 2b.
Photo 2c
Now weave the remaining 10 1/4" stakes across the filler pieces and the 12" stakes leaving about 5/16" space between horizontal stakes. Your base should measure about 2 1/4" wide and 4" long. Check to make sure your base is rectangular, the stakes are evenly spaced and that 4" of each stake extends beyond the base on all four sides. See Photo 2c.
Photo 3
Dampen your base. Upset your basket by creasing every stake at a right angle to the base. Crease the stakes at the edge of the base. See Photo 3.
Photo 4
Begin weaving (on a long side of the base) by placing a wet piece of 1/4" natural flat reed on the outside of the second stake from the left. The smooth side of the weaver should face to the outside. See Photo 4.
Photo 5
Weave around your basket using a plain weave - over one and under one. This may be confusing on row 1. A good way to think about this is: the weaver is weaving "outside" the basket on the upright stakes and "inside" the basket on the stakes which are lying on the table. The stakes lying on the table will be picked up by row 2.
To make your splice, overlap the ends of the weaver for a distance of 4 stakes. Cut the weaver so it will be hidden behind a stake when the stake is upright. See Photo 5.
Photo 6
Start row 2 on the opposite side of the basket from the row 1 splice. See Photo 6.
Where row 1 is inside a stake - row 2 will be on the outside of the stake, etc. Weave around the basket in a plain weave picking up the stakes that were lying on the table. Overlap ends when you complete the row.
Weave 1 more row in plain weave for a total of 3 independent rows.
Pack rows of weaving. Adjust stakes so they are vertical and evenly spaced.
Photo 7
Cut 24 pieces 5" long from the dyed 1/4" flat cherry reed. Wet the pieces and bend the pieces across your fingers to make them more pliable. Wipe off any excess dye from your reed with an old towel or paper towel.
Start the randing on a long side of your basket. Place the end behind a stake and behind the third row of weaving. Now weave over the first stake to the right and behind the third stake to the right and over the fourth stake to the right. The weaving will be slanting to the right. See Photo 7.
Photo 8
In the space to the left of the first row of randing, weave another piece of the 1/4" dyed cherry flat reed just like the first row of randing. See Photo 8 - showing 3 rows of randing.
Continue weaving until you have woven 23 rows of randing into your basket.
Photo 9
On the 24th row of randing the weaving may be a little tight -- adjust the stakes and other rows of randing if needed. See Photo 9.
Photo 10
Working around your basket, weave each piece of randing behind the next stake to the right, over the second stake to the right and behind the third stake to the right, leaving the end to the inside. See Photos 10 and 11.
Photo 11
Working around your basket, weave each piece of randing behind the next stake to the right, over the second stake to the right and behind the third stake to the right, leaving the end to the inside. See Photos 10 and 11.
Photo 12
Weave a row of independent plain weave with the 1/4" natural flat reed above the rows of randing. Weave this row using the same over and under pattern as row 3 of the plain weave. Now is the time to "pack" the rows. Working around your basket, straighten the stakes and make all the randing rows slant at the same angle. See Photo 12.
Photo 13
Cut the randing flush with the edge of the stakes on the INSIDE of the basket. See Photo 13.
Photo 14
Weave 2 more independent plain weave rows from the 1/4" natural flat reed for a total of 3 plain weave rows above the randing. On the third row, cut the weaver to butt against itself instead of a normal 4 stake overlap. See Photo 14.
Photo 15
Cut all the stakes level with the top row of the basket.
Cut 2 pieces 6" long from the 1/4" natural flat reed for your handles.
Wet these handles. From the INSIDE, on the narrow end of your basket, on the second stake from the left, slide one end of the handle behind the third row from the top and behind one row of randing. Bend the handle around and, on the second stake from the right side, slide the end behind the third row from the top and behind one row of randing.
You may need a tool to help open a space for your handle. See Photo 15
Photo 16
Repeat for the other end of your basket. See Photos 16.
Photo 17
Staple the top row of weaving in 6 places. Staples must penetrate the weaving and a stake. Staple one side of each handle. Squeeze each staple with a pair of pliers to keep the pointed ends of the staple tight against the basket. See Photo 17.
Photo 18
Your rims will be made from 7mm flat oval. The length of your outside rim will be the measurement around the top of your basket plus 2 1/2". The length of your inside rim will 1" shorter than the outside rim.
In order to form a smooth joint where the rims overlap you need to carve some of the thickness from both ends of each rim.
Soak your rims for a minute or two.
To determine exactly where to carve, attach the rims around the top of your basket (with clothespins). Mark the rims where they overlap — marking the rounded side of one end of the rim and the flat side of the other end. See Photo 18. Mark both rims then remove rims from your basket.
Fig. 2
Carve the rounded side of one end at an angle and the flat side of the other end at the same angle using a carving knife or hand plane forming a smooth overlapping joint as shown in Figure 2.
Photo 19
Attach the carved rims to your basket with clothespins. The rims should cover the top row.
With a wet 3 foot piece of fine fine cane lash your rims to your basket.
Start by tucking the end of your lashing up under the inside rim, over the top row and down behind the outside rim. The shiny side of your lashing should be to the outside as you lash. See Photo 19 and Figure 3.
Fig. 3
Figure 3.
Photo 20
Working left to right from the outside of your basket, bring the free end of your lashing over the rims and between two stakes to the inside of your basket just below the rims. Pull this stitch tight.
Continue lashing into every space between stakes. Keep your lashing tight and secure with a clothespin as you lash. See Photo 20
Photo 21
To finish, tuck the end under the third row of weaving from the top on the INSIDE of your basket. Pull tight and clip the excess. See Photos 21 and 22.
Photo 22
Congratulations! Enjoy your Peppermint Twist Basket
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